Before leaving, I thought of the leverdas as walking by the water. The first morning in Madeira I just had to see the path tightening between the channel and a green wall to understand that the word “easy” depends a lot on who walks. The soil was wet, some completely dark tunnels and the vacuum appeared beyond a low protection.
I was with Paolo and Miriam, known on the site a few weeks earlier. We had compared experience, pace and equipment, choosing progressive paths. None of us wanted to prove anything. We have established that anyone could ask for a break or propose to go back without having to motivate the decision.
The forest that absorbs noise
Inside the laurisilva the landscape seemed built by moisture. Roots, ferns and rocks held the water; the sound of the lever accompanied us even when we could not see it. We walked away, close enough to feel but without trampling. In the galleries we wore the lamp before we entered and protected the backpack from the low ceiling.
Halfway through, we met a French couple in front of an exposed passage. Miriam, who suffered a bit of dizziness, proposed to cross it together, one at a time. No noisy encouragement needed: just wait and leave space. On the other hand we shared dried fruit and a silence full of relief.
The choice to give up
The most anticipated day included a route at altitude. We started with variable sky, but the wind quickly increased and the clouds reduced visibility. At a crossroads we met people who continued. For a few minutes the temptation was to follow them: we arrived there and the track was still evident.
We checked the conditions, talked without minimizing the discomfort and decided to return. The renunciation burned, especially as we went down and the sky seemed to clear. An hour later, however, the rain closed everything. That day taught me that the experience in the mountains is not measured by the completed paths, but by the quality of the decisions made before they become urgent.
Ocean, rest and tired legs
We didn’t fill up every day of trekking. After two long exits we spent one morning at rest, a coastal village or a natural pool reached calmly. The legs recovered and the group had time to talk about more. This alternation prevented fatigue from becoming irritation and allowed us to better appreciate the island.
I brought shoes with good grip, waterproof, lamp, water and a dry layer. I was downloading the track offline and communicating the path to the structure. These are little romantic details, but they are the ones that allowed me to focus on the forest, the waterfalls and the ocean that suddenly appeared among the trees.
The right step
I don’t remember the miles exactly. I remember the noise of water, the smell of wet land and the way the group slowed down without needing to ask. Madeira showed me that adventure is not going faster or further away. It is to find a step that allows everyone to arrive present, not only tired.